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As a society prospers, fashion and style democratise. When one enters a Café de Coral (a mid-level restaurant chain in Hong Kong) these days, one cannot help noticing the softer lighting, artistically displayed objects of arts and a more human oriented spatial layout. Gone is the functional neon lighting with tables neatly organized in rows and seats welded to the tables.
By the same token, in a five star hotel with a USD60 per head buffet dinner, you will find the restaurant full of people like you and I. Top restaurants are no longer reserved for the rich and famous only.
What used to be very exclusive brands of cars are spotted much more frequently; Ferraris, Porsches and Bentleys. Mercedes has reached down market with its A class and series of more family oriented cars. At the same time Hong Kong's buses are cleaner, more punctual, air-conditioned and complete with programmed electronic infotainment. (The last, admittedly, not always regarded as a progressive development. Ed.)
Behind the brands, the movement is fuelled as family management gives way to corporate ownership. Louis Vuitton merged with Moet Chandon and Hennessy in 1987 to create LVMH. Talented people are recruited from all over the world: such as Marc Jacobs from the US appointed as chief designer. Product lines were diversified from leathergoods to shoes, apparel and jewelry. They succeed because when you see a lady with a LV bag, you would not dare to call it a fake, for sure. No longer is Louis Vuitton, the very exclusive luggage maker catering to a world where only the rich and famous travel for pleasure.
Giordano, one of Hong Kong's best known clothing retailers previously catering for the 'budget' market no longer offers only basic clothing items. They have become fashion and technologically oriented. They created various divisions; Giordano Concepts, Giordano Ladies and Giordano Basics to capture different segments of markets. As people grow more sophisticated, their lifestyle enjoys more variety and so do their consumer needs. Attire from black tie, business suit, Friday suit, casual elegance, plain casual to specific sports wear for different sports down to shorts and flip flops. Modern people are not afraid to be seen in any of the above attire as long as the occasion is right. In our father's generation, some gentlemen would rather be caught dead than being spotted in shorts and flip-flops in public. Never before did we accept or expect such a wide spectrum of attire.
What can brand democratisation do for us? It means that brands do not have to be owned by certain nationals. Gucci, after the long notorious family feud amongst the family members, was acquired by French company, Pinault Printemps Redoute (PPR) who bought a controlling stake in 1999. The brand enjoyed a great come back under the creative leadership of Tom Ford, an American. Fendi was originally a furrier in Rome but is now owned by luxury conglomerate LVMH. Shanghai Tang, the brand founded in Hong Kong by local blue blood David Tang was sold to Swiss group, Richemont SA. They have successfully expanded and now operate many shops in major cities worldwide. Marc Jacobs introduced fun and young elements to Louis Vuitton . Derek Lam, an American of Chinese parentage, worked for another of Hong Kong's lower-end clothing retailers, G2000, before moving to head the ready to wear line of the very upper-end Italian shoe brand, Tods.
The democratisation of the market, the gradual dis-engagement between history and the brand, the cross national management and creativity, brings about a new cultural landscape.
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DOUGLAS HSIA
Over a 20 year period Mr Hsia has developed Hong Kong-based WLH International into a major leather agent and trading company. He has extensive experience in the Chinese market as well as sourcing from tanneries worldwide. He believes a US education helped in developing an international perspective. |
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